How to climb a volcano

On Thursday at around 5:45 a.m. I got to the top of Cotopaxi Volcano, the highest active volcano in the world (Don`t buy that bs that it is in the one in Argentina. That thing is erupting out it`s side, which in my book disqualifies it.) We summited at 5,897 meters (19,344 ft) in a light snow storm. The trek to the top was pretty hard, though not as hard as I expected. We had really good weather and I was in pretty good shape for it. I had heard some horror stories from other people who did the trek, talking about how it was the hardest thing they had ever done. It was very tough, but not the hardest thing I`ve ever done.

The trip started at Secret Garden on Wednesday when the guides arrived with all our stuff. We got fitted in mountaineering boots, waterproof jackets, pants, and gloves and various other pieces of mountaineering equipment. Our group of 11 then hopped in the 4x4`s and headed to the refuge, a building where you spend the night. We got kitted up and hiked up to the glacier to do some training with our ice axes and crampons. Then it was back to the refuge for dinner and bed around 7 p.m.

At 12 p.m. we got woken up and put on all out equipment. We had a quick breakfast and then started heading out in groups from the refuge. The group I was in left last as we had 11 people and were kind of lagging. We started at 1:15 a.m. We hiked up to the glacier, and put on our crampons and got tied together - two climbers per guide. Me and Sam (another volunteer from Secret Garden) were tied to Segundo, a guy from the local village El Pedregal. As we set out on the glacier I could see other groups way up on the mountain. No way we catch them, I thought.

As we started the slog up the glacier we made good time. Our group of three kept passing other groups until it was just us up against the mountain. It was nearly a full moon and a really beautiful night. Towards the top clouds obscured the moon and a light snow started falling, but there was no wind to speak of, which was huge. Sometimes there are 70+ mph/hr winds and blinding snowstorms. We got pretty lucky with the weather.

I did pretty well with the altitude until the last 200 meters of the ascent. At that point it got pretty hard to catch my breath and we were going at a notably slower pace than earlier. However, we pushed through and at 5:45 reached the top!

I was pretty proud of myself for getting up there in 4.5 hours. Most people took about 7 and some people took like 9 or something. The peak was amazing - we watched the sun rise (sort of, as it was obscured by some low clouds), saw the crater that is obscured from the side we came up and just admired being so high up. It was really impressive to see other volcanoes you have climbed look like little hills.

So far as I can tell, the following are key to making it up a snow-covered volcano in a good time:

• A summit mohawk is key for speed and strength
  
• A summit beard helps keep your face warm and also provides strength
• Living at 3,500 meters for over a month helps a lot
• Doing 3-4 hikes a week to 4,200 meters doesn`t hurt
• Step on a glass tea cup two weeks before heading up and put an inch and a half gash in your foot, then do nothing for a few days
• Drink lots of weak, free Pilsener
• Consume about 8,000 calories the day before you head up the mountain
  

Cotopaxi a few days before heading up

The panoramic view

Volunteers with summit mohawks

Me training on the glacier to scare away Yetis

Though this was a cool pic

Sunset at the refuge

First group to the top!

The crater

Again

Passing people on our way down, thier way up

Glacier/rocks

People on thier way up

Summit mohawk!

Again